The other two wires were a switched live from the controller and of course the switched live from the receiver which goes to the valve. The L & N wires were simply providing power to the Sunvic, they played no part in the 'switch' process per se. Apologies if this is akin to a "My First Book on Electric", but that's kind of where I am at. I couldn't visualise it in my head at first, but now I can. That said, I thought I would draw a diagram and understand better how the circuit is made. What recommendation(s) can anyone make as to what replacement I would do well to get, and then which wires would go where on the unit?įWIW, I have a Viessmann boiler and an EPH T27 controller.ĮDIT : Or could I go back to a wired solution? The cable that used to have an old analogue Honeywell is still in place - but only 2 wires? How would this connect up at the other (controller) end? The Sunvic was wired as follows (all wires are black but have numbers printed on them) I obviously have the two wires that I jumpered which must (?) be the 'switch' pair, plus I have a pair for 'live' and 'neutral'. My problem is, I have 4 wires that used to connect to the Sunvic, that I wouldn't know how to connect into any new device. I see elsewhere within the forum someone recommended either Honeywell or Salus. Short version is I need to replace the Sunvic for something more reliable. I have now jumped the wires that went to the Sunvic, so I have permanently 'on' heating - not great, but at least we have heating. Turned to this forum for help! What a relief! Suspected the motorised valve at first, but this has operated perfectly when the Sunvic has decided to click the relay over. Then it deteriorated into no lights, until I killed the power, waited 30 secs and turned power back on, ad infinitum. Symptoms were that green "heat required" light would come on, but heating wouldn't. I have a dodgy (read: failed) Sunvic TLX 1206.
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